Carr and Latham’s technology of clothing manufacture / Revised by David J. Tyler . – 4th ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and. As in previous editions, the processes of modern clothing manufacture are explained alongside the equipment which is used. The latest developments – as well. Details for Carr & Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture The processes of modern clothing manufacture are explained here, alongside the equipment.

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Greaterfabric savings, and often lower total cost, although with more timetaken, would normally result from cutting nanufacture stepped lay as somecombination of lays with mixed-size markers. An alternative to the marker described above, when order quanti-ties do not reduce to a simple ratio, is the use of single size markerson a stepped lay.

The marker will be longand may even be too long for the cutting tables. This is in sharp contrast to the labour-intensive nature of sewing. Plaiting presenting the techbology in widthwise foldsrather than in a roll helps to avoid tension in the fabric.

Carr and Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture

Between these extremes are the garments produced in hundreds or thousands with varying levels of style change between each batch. Full use is made of spreadingmachinery with good tension control. A study of spreading must include the following considerations: Thecommonest form of spread in bulk production is one where all the This procedure has proved far more versatile and more appropriate for responsive manufacturing than any of these predecessors.

About the Author David J Tyler graduated in physics from Southampton University and started working for an industrial research association serving the textiles and clothing industry. This enables heavy sections of lay to be moved easily along the surface of the table to the cutting operation. It is a time-consuming method, usually requiring an operator at each side of the table. Create lists, bibliographies and reviews: In a non-stretch fabric practically allelongation of the fabric occurs in such a manner that rapid relaxationand recovery ensues.

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Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability These two factors must be considered together as the opportunities for achieving them are related. A specially designed former is placed inside the fabric and then threaded through two nip rollers that feed the fabric on to the spreading table. The sizes that will be cut and the number of plies of fabric in thelay are determined by the requirements of the order for the garments,the availability of materials and the constraints of physical equipment.

The elements of a straight knife consist of a base plate,usually on rollers for ease of movement, an upright or standardcarrying a straight, vertical blade with varying edge characteristics,and an electric motor above it, a handle for the cutter to directthe blade, and a sharpening device.

A contrast with the sewing room situation described above is pro- vided by the activity of cutting which precedes it. You can publish your book online for free in a few minutes! They can be corrected Although the original diagram of a lay and a marker implied a largesheet of paper on which were drawn the edges of all the pattern 7.

This can require that some fabrics are spread with all the plies face up, some with all the plies face down and some face to face. Technology and management of colour. In addition to the tension that may be produced by a conventionalspreading machine, there are likely to be tensions inherent in thefabric roll arising from the twist, texturising or elasticity of the yarnand the relationships of loops in the knitted structure.

Several suppliers offer computerised systems to reduce the material losses associated with cutting out at the lay. Quality assurance activities continue, but there is muchmore effort given to build quality into products at the developmentstage. WorldCat is the world’s largest library catalog, helping you find library materials online.

However, for the cut work to be sectioned off correctlyinto garment parts and sizes, there is a need to identify the size codeof each garment part the knife cuts. The mixing of sizes in a marker is to be encouraged because ingeneral the more sizes that are included in a marker, the greater isthe scope for fabric savings.

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Carr and Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture – Google Books

A modern spreading machine is shown in Fig. This is likely to be less economical than other markers. All the rest is left to the operator. Forced separation causes snagged edges and, in any case, the hard edge is uncomfortable in wear.

Thegarment parts are then cut out with hand shears, electric cutters ordies.

In this case the patternpieces can face in either direction in the marker and the followingopportunities are available: Sometimes this planning is done directly on the fabric to be cut andthe pattern shapes marked in immediately.

Thus, apart from a small number ofoperations where some form of automatic machine can be used, theoperations in clothing manufacture are largely operator-controlled. The lower blade of the shears passes under the plies, but thesubsequent distortion of the fabric is only temporary and accuratecutting to the line can be achieved with practice.

Occasionally the relationship between roll length and marker length gives bundles that are too large for convenient handling in the sewing room.

You are currently using the site but have requested a page in the site. There may be different views on what is aes- thetically pleasing. Cutting out at the lay involves creating a splice. All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names, service marks, trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners.

Fashion requires a quick response The world of clothing incorporatesa broad spectrum of products, ranging from high fashion exclusivesto mass-produced commodity products.